rock 'n roll

rocks along the tracks

On our way from Aguas Calientes to Ollantaytambo Tuesday, our train was stopped due to rocks on the tracks. In broken Spanish, we soon learned that there was a protest that was delaying our arrival. Some coordinated with their tour agencies to arrange for alternate transportation, debarking the train, only to return later when they discovered that their driver could not get to our location because their were also rocks on the roads. Initially, we had assume it was some union protest related to the train service.

rocks on the road

As Americans where protests are organized as work stoppages or pussy riots, it was difficult to understand how a bunch of rocks accomplishes anything. However, as the state of Cusco and the related government rely so heavily on tourism, creating chaos to tourists and businesses supporting such tourism, one would hope there would be some collective front to push the government to work through their issues. The protests related to far ranging matters, including teachers' wages, development of an international airport in Cusco and corruption.

ayni in action

Despite the wrench in our travel plans, we were not only blessed to have completed Machu Picchu (a taste of heaven) but also had the opportunity to meet wonderful people from all walks of life, as everyone was trying to help others and/or send wishful thoughts for safe travels. The Incas had a centrally planned economy based on collective labor: ayni (to help a community member in need), minka (to work as a team to help the community as a whole) and mita (to provide temporary service for whatever was needed), thereby mitigating the need for currency. Stealing and laziness were punishable by law. This still seems to be instilled in the culture today. People stormed off our bus to assist a truck driver who was stuck on a curve to roll a large concrete pole from the road. Others assisted policia in moving rocks, etc. from the blockades even though they all knew that those obstacles would be moved back the next day.

policia in Ollantaytambo

policia in Cusco

One English family that we had met had spent 20 hours via bus to get to Ollantaytambo, hoping to take the 5am train to Aguas Calientes to get to Machu Picchu. However, all trains were canceled so they did not make it, although they are hoping to make it once they get back from the Amazon forest. An Indian family could only get a train part way, and had to negotiate with local truck drivers to get them closer to Aguas Calientes. It took them three different trucks to finally make it. We got word today that they made it to Lima to catch their flight home Friday. I also met a "spiritual" mate on the train as she had also had a tough year last year but was learning about Law of Attraction and manifesting positive outcomes, including her fun-filled and surreal experience getting to Machu Picchu. It was fun sharing our stories and experiences from this year.

stranded with no place to go

We were blessed that we were one of the earlier trains so buses and security were arranged to get us to Ollantaytambo and eventually found a driver that was brave enough to drive us to Cusco a couple of days later. Many drivers had feared that rocks would be thrown at them, and had canceled planned trips and/or took very circuitous routes to avoid the main thoroughfare. It was not until we got on the road that we were able to see the outcome of the protests, which included not only rocks but also large boulders, concrete poles, trash, enormous tree stumps, and fire from burning of those materials. 

family style

As I noted in pig in mud (part 3), it is not difficult to find the blessings in life and enjoy local life in travels. Both my companions had noted that they would have normally "freaked out"; however, they were chill and quickly appreciated how things worked out well for us. We took the opportunity to have a mouth-watering earthen oven cooked meal (Pachamanca) from an organic farm. We also got upgraded to a suite upon our arrival in Cusco, of which it was lovely to see their excitement as neither had been in a suite before.