twilight

I have always appreciated the beauty in sunrises and sunsets (a taste of heaven and puffs of cotton). But it wasn't until the time that I have spent in Hawaii over the last year (to infinity and beyond) that I started to explore the magic in the Sun's crepuscular rays. During my month in Oahu last spring, we would try to catch sunset everyday at the Maunalua Bay Beach during our evening walks with Pele.

Canggu, Bali

While in Hilo on the Big Island, the sunrises (11:11 (part 13)) beaming through my bedroom's sliding door served as the rooster's crow to greet the day. But in Kona, it seemed a ritual for many, whether floating on surfboards, lounging in sand or standing cliffside, it was a siren song that bewitched locals and tourists alike to watch in silence and awe as the hues dynamically displayed its vastness across the horizon. Sometimes, one would even get a glimpse of dolphins and whales frolicking in the distance or a sea turtle basking on the rocks.

No matter how the day unfolded, we never regretted packing up the car to chase the sunset in Kona. With the feet grounded in sand and skin absorbing the ions of the salt in the air and ocean, the experiences were always calming to the senses and provided a reset to the energy. Some of our best self-facilitated therapy sessions occurred after we returned from sunsets.

Gili Trawangan, Bali

Yet, it isn't often that one can find a location, other than high above in the mountains where both sunrises and sunsets grace the sky like puffs of cotton or to infinity and beyond. While in Bali, it seemed as if we could catch one or the other but not both, until we got to Gili Trawangan Island where we could rent bicycles to explore the other side of the island. Meeting a group of aerialists while in Ubud had me stumbling into my first aerial yoga class during sunset at the aptly named, Sunset Beach Yoga.

Sanur, Bali

With almost a month this time around, I was able to explore more of the beauty of the Balinese culture and people since eat, pray, love. Snorkeling in the Gilis while on a local concoction of magic mushrooms allowed our eyes to see the vivid colors fauna and creatures of the ocean. Like last time though, I was mistaken for a local Balinese a few times, affording me the opportunity to enjoy the benefits of being a local as well. I was happy that our last night was at the tip of Bali, one of the few places to enjoy both sunrises and sunsets, and as I flew out the following evening, I was blessed with my final sunset on Bali from the porthole of the plane as we were taking off.

* * * * *

I have paddle boarded a number of times in my life, primarily in the calm waters of lakes like Lake Tahoe or bays. With no daylight savings time, sunrise was a little after 5 AM, requiring a meet up time of 4:30 AM. So a sunrise paddle boarding excursion in the ocean was less than ideal for this night owl. But in the wee hours with the moon lighting my way, the East Vietnam Sea off the coast of Hoi An was as calm as lake waters. I went out further than I had planned, being lured towards the Cu Lao Cham Island, in the direction of the rising sun. We were not alone out in the expanse of the ocean, with the local fishermen rowing their basket boats out to check their nets, with one elated to share news of the few crabs that landed in his net that morning.

Perhaps because of the atmosphere that day, the sunrise was full of red, yellows and oranges, even before and after its peak at 5:19 AM. The brisk sea air, the undulations of the ocean, the hues in the horizon, and the titillating energy all around took me back (or forward) to the breathtaking minutes at a taste of heaven. I lost all track of time and awareness of anything else around me. It was perhaps the visuals that could have corresponded with the vibrations and energy I felt during my 5-MeO-DMT journeys (blast off).

It took me awhile to finally hear the sounds of my paddle board companions as they were calling out to me to not go out much further. We stayed out there for another hour or so, connecting with strangers (with one being a marine biologist) and discussing the miracles of life that humans have not acquired the knowledge to explain ... quantum physics, space-time continuum of a block universe (in the NOW) ... and in the end, we all agreed that we would choose to believe in magic and miracles.

As we got back to shore, there was so much activity, with some enjoying the beach for recreation and sport before the heat of the day became scorching and unbearable. It would seem as my friends were accurate when they said that the locals enjoy the beach and town before 8 AM and after 5 PM. According to them, the only people you see on the beach in between are the foreign tourists.

Hoi An happens to be one of those spots where one can catch sunrises and sunsets because of its topography. On the bridge in Old Town, without the obstructions of buildings or mountains, the locals gather before dusk to bid adieu to the brightest star in our skies.

* * * * *

While I knew that the lack of sun in recent decades has resulted in many illnesses and diseases, I have since learned of the benefits of the crepuscular rays to our bodies. At the low horizon, the sun's spectrum of light travels through more of the atmosphere, creating alternating bands of light with the highest contrast of blue and yellow lights. This contrast stimulates the photosensitive cells in the eyes, which in turn, is important to eye health and effects the hypothalamus pituitary parts of the brain, regulating not only the body's circadian rhythm but also hormones, impacting everything from metabolism to nervous system. Adjusting to the sunrise, sunset, Earth's vibrations and meal times of a location is one way to combat jet lag.

So not only are sunrises and sunsets music to our souls, they are driving forces to our bodies and health. Therein lies another magic and miracle of the universe. 

tum-tum

Vietnam has changed a lot since I lived here, and even since my last visit in 2017 (same same but different). My first store that I ventured into had a full display of sex toys - something that was underground, recycled by expats as gifts to local girlfriends and confiscated at customs in the past (elvis has left the building). Yet, although accessible before, like Thailand (that's a-mores!), porn sites are now blocked.

While District 2 is full of Western influences in its restaurants and bars, menus have been customized to local preferences, like unpalatable and al fresco to go, While two of the top three selling pizzas of Al Fresco's Group are typical pizzas in Western countries, the other one (New Oceana) is specific to local tastes, comprising of bacon, tuna, onions and cheese while covered in Thousand Island dressing, with your usual ketchup and pepper packets as extras that Southern Vietnamese put on top of their pizzas (al fresco to go).

Even Pizza Hut introduced the Worm Pizza on April 1 of this year, resulting in many wondering if it was an April Fool's joke. But as noted by Saigoneer, it was launched to line up with Earth Day and one of the company's mission of sustainable sources of food, given the high protein content of silkworms.

Despite the general lactose-intolerance of its people (got milk?), there is now an abundance of affordable milk options from local to foreign sources, including Meiji and oat milk. I was surprised to find the only 'gluten-free only' restaurant in the country, considering the significance of coeliac disease in the US. While I knew that pasta in Italy (and other countries) tend to not contain gluten because of the lack of pesticides in locally sourced wheat, I had not realized that soy sauce contained gluten until I recently dated someone (synchronicity (part 2)) who sometimes had belly aches from Asian food. However, because most of the carbs in the Vietnamese diet is rice based, over 95% of the diet is gluten-free, including the locally sourced soy sauce. Much of the diet is also fresh, unprocessed and organic.

As locals start modifying their diet to incorporate those from other countries, they may find that the Southeast Asians may also have an intolerance to gluten. My 23andMe (full circle (part 3)) profile notes that I am likely to have alcohol flush (moments that matter (part 6)) and lactose intolerance, but coeliac disease is not something that is noted in my dashboard, as of yet, but then again, when I initially received my results, it lumped me in as Southeast Asian, a very broad stroke, and has over the years, refined it to Vietnamese, including specific regions, as more data is collected.

While Silvi Coffee Roasters also specializes in quality coffee, it boasts the country's only gluten-free menu focused on quality ingredients, and provides gluten-free products to other local restaurants and hotels. In my experience, not all gluten-free products and restaurants are created equal, and much like vegan options, I struggle to rehaul my diet because of the flavors and quality. However, I enjoyed the savory and sweet flavors and dishes that I experienced in this off-the-beaten-track gem. Yet in the modern day conundrum of business owners, the 'hidden' treasure for those suffering from coeliac disease would unfortunately get lost in the algorithms or meta tags of the savvy internet travelers. Hopefully, this helps shift the algorithm for them.

* * * * *

Update June 13, 2023:

It would seem from the knowledgable locals (e.g., my prior staff) that the country has only blocked international porn sites, and not the ones that are more regional. Rather than ask my old crew, I did a quick search and someone who seems to have a fetish for Vietnamese women, have already captured this (The 5 best Vietnamese porn sites) on My Sexpedition, filed under 'How and Where to Find Sex in Vietnam' and 'How and Where to Find Sex on the Internet'. He does list the international one that seems to be blocked now as number 4, but perhaps it worked in January 2023 and has fallen prey to the censor police.

extra-terrestrial

Although my recollection of my first plane ride was our band trip to NYC for the Macy's Parade my senior year (stamp collection), the reality is that the first plane was the one that took us from Asia to a refugee camp in the US. Throughout my childhood, we rarely took family vacations but when we did, it was usually a road trip to visit relatives in California. Sometimes, it seemed as if we packed more food and beverages for the multi-day trips than clothing. 

Perhaps from an innate fear of authorities, stemming from years in a communist country, being stopped at the state line caused some consternation between my parents. Unaware of the laws, they were confused when the officials at the border checkpoint had us turn over all produce, only to watch them dump them in the trash. Exposure to farms and/or transportation of meat or produce are common questions on all immigration forms worldwide. 

After getting approved for Global Entry, my first overseas trip was my friends' wedding in Spain many years ago. Excited to bring back a taste of the delicacy of jamon (cured ham), we went to a number of local spots to find properly packaged, quality jamon. Thinking my luck had turned, I was pulled for customs inspection, only to find out afterwards that the system automatically flags people based on travel locals (such as France, Germany, Italy or Spain for any cured meats) and profiles (e.g., new Global Entry individuals) to inspect. The official, with my name and picture in hand, was intentionally looking for me. Although the fine is up to $10k, the inspector luckily let me off with a warning after throwing away my expensive 'souvenir', most likely the initiation rite for many new members.

Like California, Hawai'i has strict regulations in order to manage insect infestations and disease outbreak that would be detrimental to the natural flora or fauna that would not have the natural defenses to protect itself from such species. Hawai'i, with its isolation in the Pacific Ocean, has uniquely adapted endemic species that would be highly sensitive to exposure to and/or competition from invasive species. Endemism is almost ten times richer on islands than on mainland. Rats, fire ants, mosquitoes, coqui frogs and asiatic rhinoceros beetle, to name a few, did not exist on the islands until the advent of foreigners. Even intentional introduction of foreign species had unintended consequences that have wreaked havoc upon the natural habitat. 

Mongooses were brought in to control the rat population in sugar cane fields; however, they are active during the day while rats are nocturnal creatures. Given their opportunistic predatory behavior, rather than control the rat population, it resulted in a reduction of snails, palms and nesting birds, which feed on rats, thereby increasing the rat population. In the 1800s, strawberry guava was brought in as an edible fruit but now threatens endemic flora and fauna because of its shade-casting thickets and dense mats of surface feeder roots.

Hawai'i also has strict guidelines and quarantine restrictions for pets, including service animals, which makes it a challenge for the spontaneous travelers. While the Big Island is the largest of the Hawaiian islands, its population is only a quarter of that of Oahu, the location of the capital. It is known for its agricultural and vast micro-climates, containing 10 of the 14 Köppen climate subzones, practically all but the ones in the Cool Snow Forest climate.

In addition to the active volcanos on the island (juxtaposition), soil transport is also an issue between the micro-climates of the Big Island, with signs warning visitors about bringing unwanted species from footwear or pets. Locals are mindful about acquiring plants from nearby resources rather than other parts of the island for fear of introducing unwanted pests onto their lands. Living on the mainland, even as a resident of the Bay Area, I was unaware of the magnitude of the dangers and long-term effects to the economy and ecology, amounting to over $120 billion to control and combat the impacts in the U.S. alone.

pū'iwa

Baby cloud created by lava lake

On a whim, we decided yesterday to head to the Volcano area late afternoon for a change in altitude. My friend had stayed there with his partner for nine months after the California wildfires had burnt their home in Berry Creek a few years ago, and Volcano was a place of healing for them. It is woodsy and cooler like Tahoe or Berry Creek and after a spell, it seemed like we were up in the clouds, much like puffs of cotton and a taste of heaven, which has always been a moment of wonderment to me. The white vapors seemed to be all around us until I noticed a group of people congregating in the distance and expressed concern that the wisps of white were perhaps plumes of smoke instead.

Like a 'kid in a candy store', a giddiness overwhelmed me as I bounced in my seat, when I learned that they were smoke vents from an active volcano. I had previously overheard that there is a place on the Big Island with active lava but had mistakenly thought it was at Mauna Kea. I found myself explaining to my friend how I love surprises, especially in the context of new experiences (YUMmy and full circle (part 8)), although perhaps to a rational adult, my explanation still seemed disproportionate to my level of glee.

Offerings

Flare-up in the evening sky

We navigated to various lookout points around one side of the crater, hoping to see a flare up in the lava lake. A number of places were closed, including the museum and the lava tubes due to structural instability from the last eruption in 2018. By the time we backtracked to the Kilauea Overlook, I was beginning to think that Pele would not bless us with its ember glow as the lake remained as black as the black sand beaches around the island, from the cooled lava. The lake, once full of lava, was slowly inching up since it collapsed in 2018, resulting in lava erupting and oozing out in some of the lower regions. 

A number of residents had recounted their personal experiences from the last devastation to me since I arrived. Similar to 9/11, some had to evacuate their homes for almost a year, with some temporarily relocating to other islands or the mainland. As the lava lake had increased by ten feet over the last three months, local residents came to pay tribute with offerings to Pele, in attempts to keep her temper at bay. It was with humbleness in my appreciation of the beauty of the vibrant red dance that Pele bestowed upon us later that evening, with the setting sun joining her in the dance, reflecting their union in the clouds with such warm hues of orange, red and all shades in between.

As I was reading about the collapsed crater in 2018, something caught my eyes at the top of the panel. The fact that it doesn't appear to have anything to do with the rest of the information caused me to pause a tad bit longer in disbelief. And just like that, the universe articulated it much more succinctly than I could, in the native tongue.

"Amazement; a surprise; a stupefaction on account of wonder"

~ "A Dictionary of the Hawaiian Language" 1865

pot of gold

Upper Waikana Falls

Stone Stacking

The Road to Hana is a 64.4-mile stretch of amazing and beautiful sites and sounds of Mother Nature, including beaches, waterfalls, trails, woods and wildlife. The winding road has 59 bridges, of which 46 are one-lane roads that the locals have chosen to preserve rather than widen.

While it had inclement weather prior to our arrival, we were blessed with sunny weather, except for the day that we had planned to drive the Road to Hana. Others probably changed their plans that day, and while we debated on whether to continue with our plans, we were left with the choice of do or don't as it was our last full day on the island. Learning from law of attraction and gratitude, I noted that it would generally be less crowded, and at the end of any rainstorm is a rainbow. 

While many opt for tour books or tour guides, GyPSy Guide provides a self-guided tour based on GPS, a benefit of today's modern technology. Our stops were limited to the bursts of drizzle. In addition to the lushness during our drive, the thunderous waterfalls were rumbling, in some cases spilling onto the roads and bridges. The guide took us through the history of Hawaii from its initial discovery by the Tahitians to its statehood in the United States, including its evolution from indigenous religious polytheistic and animistic beliefs with a social hierarchy to the introduction of Christianity. 

While there is nothing magical about the town of Hana, representing one of the older traditional towns of Maui, the Road to Hana is more about the awe-inspiring journey to Hana, with the vast detours and adventures one can choose to embark to see nature in all its glory and the wildlife like monk seals and sea turtles.

Although the day was getting long, the guide suggested we go past Hana to see the 7 Sacred Pools, a misnomer for marketing purposes. As we were approaching the turn to Hana, the break in the clouds seemed to be calling us to 'Ohe'o Gulch where the pools can be found. As we climbed up the rocky trail towards the sea cliff, the universe reminded us that there is a rainbow waiting for all of us. Life is about the poles, to appreciate the highs, one must muster through the lows. Yet, in seeing the beauty throughout our journey to Hana, it was difficult for me to see the rainfall as anything but part of the beauty of Mother Nature.

 

puffs of cotton

Sunrise at Machu Picchu (a taste of heaven) was one of my favorite moments of feeling as if I could just reach out and touch the sky. The drive up to Haleakalā Crater and Summit had us on the edge of the mountain side with billowy clouds wafting by us. Tour operators offer bicycle trips up and down the national park. With  such narrow and windy roads, it required vigilance in avoiding the cyclists. At the summit, one can view the Haleakalā Observatory, which is one of the best locations for ground telescopes given the clarity, dryness and stillness in the air and limited light pollution. Although closed to the public, it is operated by the United States Air Force and University of Hawaii.

During the hike on the Sliding Sands Trail down to the crater, the fluffy cumulous clouds crept into the crater, inching towards the trail. On the way back, we were caught up in the misty wisps as we walked through remnants of one. At over 10,000 feet above sea level, as the heat source was setting, the temperature dropped significantly, yet it did not deter the crowds that congregated near the summit to get a glimpse of sunset on the island.

In the silence of the crowd, I found myself catching my breath as the hues of orange, peach and yellow imbued the sky. As the sun disappeared from the horizon and the crowd was dissipating, a cool breeze made the hair on my skin prickle, reminding me that I have angels watching over me.

rippling reflections

I am learning to appreciate the beauty and the signs from Pachamama and my spirit guides. One of my favorite adventures, especially during travels, is to explore off the beaten path. When the vendor who was selling concoctions of coconut water and local fruit near Wailua Falls recommended exploring what nature had to offer near what the locals called 'Loop Road', my ears perked up. With the limited cell reception and unmarked roads, a pin drop in Google Maps served as our target.

It was not clear whether we ever found 'Loop Road', but sitting on a massive stone, surrounded by the streaming water from a babbling brook, I closed my eyes, absorbing the sounds, scents and touch of the magic of Pachamama. Similar to the cats roaming free in Morocco (kitty litter), Kauai was infested with chickens throughout the island, whether congregating in parking lots or grazing on the side of the road. Yet what in modern times are considered more farm animals than wild animals, they were in their element with the rainbow eucalyptus trees and the towering albizias.

In my quest to find 'Loop Road', we got lost, or perhaps from a different perspective, were found when we chanced upon a secluded reservoir. On a cloudy day, the reflections of the clouds in the sky were clearly imprinted upon the crystal water in the reservoir. As I explore the universal laws in spirituality, it reminded me of who and what we manifest in our lives that serve as mirrors of ourselves, and the progress we've made as well as the growth that is yet to come. When I first heard it, I am not sure that I fully understood it but one of guiding principles of late is "I heal you; I heal me. I heal me; I heal you." Understanding that we are all connected (Law of One) provides an aerial view of my responsibility in raising the collective consciousness in my accountability to working on me and assisting those around me who are external reflections of my internal self.

shooting star

Understanding that nothing is coincidental often gives an interesting perspective in being present in the moment. A friend's faux pas had us booking our flights to the wrong island, and coming in on the wrong day with no lodging booked. Luckily, we took the last available room at a nearby hotel. 

Too chilly for the beach, we darted to the hot tub only to find it crowded. Laying on the lounge chairs by the pool, we practiced visualizing and manifesting an empty hot tub for a private session, imagining each couple leaving minutes apart from each other. 

Gazing up at the stars, I showcased my recent knowledge of different constellations and planets that he has shown me in the Mojave Desert or Cabo San Lucas. In a quick flash, a star shot across the sky. In the Sahara Desert (one hump or two), I had missed a shooting star that some had seen as I was looking at a different part of the sky. I was giggly with excitement at the splendor and took it as a good omen. As we turned towards the hot tub, the first couple started leaving. We got to christen the hot tub in our own private bubble.

violet goddess

In a moment of firsts, I was looking forward to spending Christmas with the eyes of a child with rainbow kaleidoscope glasses, watching the radiant sun, cottony clouds, bluest sky, undulating waves and briskly palm trees turn into the glowing moon, twinkling stars and roaring tides as we walked the shores of Cabo San Lucas. When we saw the notice that the luggage had been searched and the bare vial, our hearts dropped. In an attempt to salvage my wish, he diluted the vial with water for me to empty the contents.

Within minutes, my body was taken through whorls of vibrant purples, magentas and fuchsias of fractals and mandalas by a dark-headed goddess. Those who witnessed my short journey in blast off likened my undulations to be an extended stay of a similar journey. Not understanding where it was taking me, I just wanted it to stop as I was spent.

By today, we realized that what appeared to be barren had only had the alcoholic medium evaporate, and my second experience with the medicine was enough for three. While the goddess guided me through visuals that my eyes and mind had never seen, my muscle-fatigued body was ready to get off her tour, not quite understanding her message.

thelma & louise (part 3)

The annual Folsom Street Fair was over the weekend. I joined the hosts of YUMmy and their crew with the intention of stepping out of my introverted self in order to build my tribe. In separate discussions with a few new acquaintances, and hopefully budding friendships, it was wonderful to see how generally supportive the women were to making the world a much more positive experience for other women.

Although they did not initially know each other like the other thelma & louise series, I met two authentically fabulous women. Both have not only made the best of their past situations but also have followed their bliss in living out their passions. Pixie has made an entire hobby/career of living on the edge, not knowing what is in store each day, for the last 4.5 years, and trusting the universe to provide for her adventures. She truly hypostatizes carpe diem when she resolutely walked up to volunteer for a flogging demonstration in public at the fair. It was only later that I found out that she has never been flogged. One day I hope she writes a book of all her moments of happiness.

Krystle serves as a reminder to me that sometimes we fall into things that turn out to bring us joy. She pursued that joy to complete her various certifications in yoga and paddle board yoga. Both have managed and/or are creating ventures in order to finance their international travels as well. In their lessons to me, I am reminded of my plan in the girl with the dragon tattoo. They provided me a quick kick in the arse that while the universe has held me here to explore and discover my tribe, I should continue to follow my compass towards grey hat. Full of such vivacious energy for life, they both embody such courage, love and inspiration.

culo up

Since a spontaneous yet fateful motorcycle tour around Bangkok, I have always loved motorcycles. The irony though is although it is on my bucket list to own one, I have not quite learned how to ride one, which would require quite a bit of customization given my size.

In some countries, it is fairly common to own a scooter, motorbike or motorcycle, yet I have found that there is some common personality trait that would draw someone to owning certain types of motorcycles, and perhaps that is the trait that appeals to my adventurous side (face of the girl (part 1)).

So when offered a trip to Caorle to see the Adriatic Sea on the last weekend of summer on motorcycles to avoid the traffic, given the crowds, I was more than game. My motorcycle host though was coming from his family's country estate in the mountains, and while he owned a few motorcycles, his options were limited to what he had stored at the country house.

My friend dubs it the 'culo (ass) up' bike. It is designed as a motorcycle for racing, and not very practical for passengers although it has an option to attach a passenger seat. Given its design, the passenger is sitting higher up than the rider, which results in a very uncomfortable position that probably works for shorter rather than longer rides. With the ride being approximately 40 minutes each way, my body was definitely sore for days. Luckily, my companions offered to provide massages, including one whom I found out had studied to be a professional masseuse in his career explorations.

Caorle, known as Little Venice, is a beautiful little beach town with colorful buildings and history. The Sanctuary of the Madonna dell'angelo had its own claim to a miracle in 1727 when the entire town was flooded while the church on the sea was left unscathed. It even has its very own leaning tower, one of the few circular bell towers in Italy.

The Adriatic Sea is shallow in general, with average depth of 173 meters. However, most of the northern part of the sea is less than 100 meters, which was amazing to see and great for families with small children. It was as if everyone is walking on water for as far as the eyes could see. With shallow water comes warm water temperatures even for Northern Italy.

The fellows' idea to take motorcycles rather than a car was a great idea given the immense traffic at the end of the evening as families were taking advantage of the last days of summer. While it was great to be able to swerve in and out of traffic between the cars on the way home, I did miss the ability to hit high speeds on a racing motorcycle. My host though was kind enough to oblige when he could with a few pop-a-wheelies and slowing to a crawl in order to hit speeds of 160km/hr, even if for a short stint. Though sore and tired, we ended the day with great laughs over pizza roulette.

self service

Up in the hills of Valdobbiadene is an old stone house, nestled in the middle of a vineyard, that serves as an osteria (place that serves wine and simple food). However, other than basics like ingredients and tools for making your own coffee and simple outdoor furniture, there is no person managing or working at the osteria.

Parking at Osteria senz'Oste is ad hoc between the vines. My friend (crushing grapes), who has made annual excursions to Valdobbia-dene for harvesting took us there simply for the amazing views. However, he has always missed the signs leading to the prosecco vending machines. While he knew they existed, as one is located in the vineyards near the parking area, which doubles as parking for a wine tasting room, not affiliated with the osteria, he never loitered long enough to realize that people brought and/or bought items for a beautiful day in the sun and vineyards for a long and lazy aperitivo.

Following the signs takes one through paths up the hill, meandering through the vineyards until one gets to the top of the hill where there are larger vending machines to purchase bottles of different types of prosecco. Another vending machine provides water bottles and simple food that usually is provided with aperitivo. Plastic cups hang from the sides of the vending machines.

While there are picnic tables and benches at the top of the hill near the vending machines, the more intimate setting is below next to the vineyards at the side of the hill with pergolas covered with trailing vines and overhanging bunches of grapes.

We ended up spending an entire afternoon, sharing over seven bottles of prosecco between five people enjoying the company and beautiful atmosphere. We made a number of new friends with many groups sharing snacks, desserts and other bottles of wine, some of which were in unmarked bottles brought from home (moonshine). With overlapping languages with not all speaking any particular language, it became easier to understand each other being under the influence.

After harvesting that day from her family's vineyards, a woman who manages the inventory in the vending machines stopped by to check the stock, and coordinate with my friend on harvesting with her family the rest of the week. In her curiosity on how such a hodgepodge of different people had congregated together, she soon discovered that we represented U.S. (New York, Connecticut, Texas, and California), Vietnam, Japan, France, Switzerland and Italy (Meolo and Venice), with many just meeting each other that day. While some had left a bit earlier, she felt it was worthy of a Facebook post on the osteria's page. These moments with locals and new friends are some of the most amazing  and cherished memories from my travels.

* * * * *

In the land of love, vending machines with various prophylactic sheaths are visible sporadically near town centers. They are even installed in schools in Rome. Safe sex is available 24/7 and most likely attributes to one of the lowest birth rates in Europe. The machines offer many options for every fancy.

Perhaps I am used to the American men who make any excuse to not use protection as it impacts their sensitivity, it was great that Italian men seemed always prepared, even if it was to ask friends for any spares. Rather than take the additional risk of potential breakage with ultra-thins on the market today, I also noticed that there was a tendency to use the thicker latex options.

In some cases, perhaps it was to prolong the experience with his partner. For others, it does cause some challenge in climaxing in the usual way, and other methods are used to finish. One man even joked that it is great for protection from any residual feces during anal. As Monty Python croons 'always look on the bright side of life'.

syzygy

I have always believed in magic and miracles (or said a different way, that we are not alone, left with coincidences in life). As I have opened my heart and mind to such possibilities, I have started to notice more of these serendipitous moments in my life as alignment of the sun, stars and moon.

Padova is the second largest college town in  Italy with a number of different universities represented. Since classes do not resume until October, it was mostly populated with local residents. Galileo Galilei taught math here for 18 years. His astronomical observatory was housed at La Specola di Padova. Padova is also where the famous Italian aperol spritz, an aperitif cocktail, originated.

The town center is mostly closed off to autos. Most people travel by bicycles, many are fairly vintage as well since bicycles are subject to the highest thefts in the city so residents have learned to not bother to own the more expensive versions. Although I am used to see bicycles in San Francisco as a mode of transportation to and from work for many of the software engineers, it was adorable to see the locals go bar hopping via bicycles. Many had baskets and the little bells that reminded me of childhood.

From the beginning of booking the trip (with new templates...the party continues) with a one-way ticket as a fulfillment of stamp collection, I made no plans and decided to follow the wind wherever it may blow. There were so many moments throughout my travels in Italy where I felt that this is exactly where I need to be at this moment in time.

In its simplicity, the biggest 'aha' moment for me that left me with a huge grin and a bounce in my step was in taking a picture of a typical Italian casa in a cute courtyard in Padova. As I put the camera up to my face to snap the photo, I noticed a couple and a bicyclist approaching the left of the screen. They slowed down as they saw me with the camera, and without any cues, the bicyclist circled the courtyard and left the way he came, as if that was always his intent to come and circle the courtyard, while the couple waited for his departure before they leaned in for a romantic kiss and loving embrace. Both represented quintessential Italy. For me, they were where they needed to be at the exact moment in time.

with new templates...the party continues

As the day was approaching, the trajectory seemed to be pointing to old templates (full circle (part 6)). Yet something always held me back on booking a solo trip to a remote island in Thailand that was probably meant more for couples. A chance encounter with someone on OKCupid, whom I will never meet, reminded me of a bucket list item...visiting Italy under different circumstances than the last (stamp collection).

Following my bliss led me to an amazing villa off the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast with 14 other people, of whom I only knew 3 who had been friends for decades, to celebrate a stranger's 50th birthday. Oddly, circumstances resulted in celebrations of my birthday (day before and day of) surrounded only by new friends and strangers that I had known less than a week but all made me feel like family. While my villa companions kept asking me what I wanted to do on my big day, I was hesitant to take away from the semi-centennial week of the birthday girl.

Almost bringing me to tears of joy, the new friends surprised me with a birthday celebration at the Fire One beach club the day before, with the candled dessert and prosecco popping being brought out by someone who ended up being a bigger part of the birthday celebrations. Thinking it was for someone else, as someone pointed me to turn around, I was amazed to see the entire beach club, with a few even heading towards our table, sing, clap and join in the celebration. Italians lined up to give me double kisses for my birthday.

A smaller group took a smaller boat around the day off, kicking it off with prosecco popping in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Gennaro (or Franchino as the locals call him) showed us the best grottos, waterfalls and swim holes, of which some are only known by the locals. We ended the afternoon at the Fire One beach club again, where the man from the day before showed me a natural piscina that Nature had created in a grotto. As Franchino stated, "If a local offers to show you, you must take him up on it as it is an honor, for the locals do not share their natural wonder to others."

As the other birthday girl exclaimed when we ended the day of my birthday, "If I die today, this is the best day of my life." I will have to agree, the day left me in awe. The night ended with a motorcycle ride with a local through the curvey roads along the cliffs of the Amalfi Coast. With the strength and control in his body as he cornered the turns at a high speed, and the cool breeze and ocean perfume assailing my senses, for a brief moment I closed my eyes and thought, "This is my life!"

sound healing

SOFAR Sounds started in 2009 in London when a friend invited a few friends to his pad to listen to another friend perform live music. Almost a decade later, this has expanded to 431 cities and is an opportunity for locals and tourists to experience local performers, as well as an opportunity for local performers to share their gifts to the community and expand their following.

The location and the performers are a surprise to those who attend until 24 hours in advance. In certain cities, performances are offered almost every day of the year. My house was built in 1878, and the previous owner had used it as a bed and breakfast, often renting out rooms to Broadway performers who were looking to stay close to the entertainment district of Fillmore yet away from the busy downtown where the theaters that housed the Broadway shows were located. As he passed on the keys to the house, he relayed stories of the guests often hanging out in the front parlors, inviting friends like Carlos Santana, to perform impromptu gigs and sing-a-longs into the wee hours of the evenings.

As the furniture from the staging was removed from the house, I did not have the heart to replace them, and it seemed that with the empty space, it was a great opportunity to get the house back to some of its roots and creativity, providing a venue for performers to share their vibrations and expand their sound healing. The organizer had noted that night that he had not seen such a great set as that night in a very long time, as the three performers (Carolina Story, William Wild and Speakease) were very symbiotic in their sounds, with one traveling as far as Tennessee to grace us with their magic.

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Update January 15, 2019:

I found myself committed to hosting a SOFAR Sounds event during a tough moment in my life, and while I had made excuses to not be present during the event, I found myself drawn to the music. I am grateful for The Carrots, Andrew Duhon and Dux for lulling me to its vibrations, drawing me out of my room and reminding me to be in the moment, providing me with the sound healing that my soul needed at the time.