crystal clear

luna y azul

I had known that we were spending a few days at a lake and to prepare to dress warmly. However, it wasn't until I got here that I realized that it was Lago Titicaca (grey puma, despite some thinking that it was named after tits and shit). Being geographically challenged, for some reason I had thought that this wonder of the world was in Africa, so it was a glorious morning surprise to realize that our boat ride on the lake covered another bucket list item.

Andes montañas en Bolivia

The Isle of Taquile has about 2,500 inhabitants known as Taquileños. They operate on community collectivism, based on the Inca moral code of ama sua (do not steal), ama llulla (do not lie), and ama quilla (do not be lazy). Punishment is relinquished in the form of public lashings. While technically, Taquileños are Catholics, nobody goes to church on the island as they follow the traditional Andean religion based on Patchamama and ancient local herbal medicines and medical diagnosis based on transference of medical conditions via guinea pig. The women weave and cook, and the men knit. Children do their own laundry by the age of 5, and learn the trades of their parents. While the number of tourists are limited on the island, the funds have helped the community to make upgrades to paths and to the community, such as solar panels for electricity. Life is simple, and life span averages 75 years old while the average life span on the mainland is 65 years old.

The Uros live on one of the 86 Islas Flotantes, floating islands made of totora reeds, which are also part of their diet. Each week or two, the indigenous inhabitants add a layer of reeds. Each island lasts for approximately 25 years before a new one needs to be built from scratch. Each island consists of approximately 25 people from 5 families. As children become teenagers, they move to the mainland. The families who choose to continue to live on these floating islands do so out of tradition and maintaining the ancient ways. They are said to have "black blood," which is why they do not feel the cold. A teacher travels by boat to one of the islands where the children gather each day via reed boats for their education.

totora reeds

solar panels en isla flotante

té de muña

The Uros used to catch 10 kilos a day of prehistoric fish, which they use to barter and trade on the mainland. However, due to overfishing, pollution and global warming, their catch has reduced significantly to perhaps 1 kilo a day. Tourism supplements their ability to obtain goods on the mainland, such as vegetables to supplement their diet. The lake also houses prehistoric frogs (Titicaca water frog or telmatobius culeus). It is also known as the Titicaca scrotum water frog for its excessive skin which helps it to respire in the cold water, as it is an entirely aquatic species.

Being on the lake with the crisp air and clear water left me absolutely breathless. The pictures did not do it justice with a beautiful sunny day with the cloudless skies, reflecting the moon on one side and the Andes on the Bolivian side. In the spirit of living in the moment (11:11 (part 4)), I did not hesitate to play in the "mucho frio agua" (7 degrees Celsius), despite being the only person from our boat to do so. Not quite as organic as the Pachamanca in rock 'n roll, the locals welcomed us and shared Pachamanca with their local flavor, including ending the day with pisco. As was a taste of heaven, connecting with Patchamama truly is blissful.

refreshing dip in lago titicaca